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Składniki naturalne chroniące skórę od zewnątrz przed UV

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Saskia


Dołączył: 18 Sty 2006
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Wysłany: Nie Mar 04, 2007 16:33
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Tajniki bezpiecznego opalania ciała
dr Elżbieta Kowalska-Wochna
http://www.panacea.pl/articles.php?id=216
Cytat:
Korzeń ratanii (Krameria triandra)
Inaczej Pastwin trójpręcikowy. Jest krzewem rosnącym w Andach. Korzeń od wieków był wykorzystywany przez Peruwiańczyków do przyrządzania proszku do zębów oraz wody do ust. Wyciąg z korzenia zawiera sporą ilość garbników katechinowych, dzięki czemu ma działanie ściągające i przeciwbakteryjne. Niedawno odkryto również jego skuteczność w ochronie przeciwsłonecznej.
(...)
Umbelliferon (7-hydroksykumaryna)
występuje w rodzinach Umbelliferae, Solanaceae, Compositae i innych. Jako filtr przeciwsłoneczny w kosmetyce częściej wykorzystywana jest jego pochodna - octan umbeliferonu.

Inne
Pochodne benzofenonu, pozyskiwane z oczaru wirginijskiego (Hammamelis virginiana), chronią przed UVA i UVB.
Beta-glukan, pozyskiwany z owsa, zapewnia 50% protekcji w zakresie UVB.
Kwas cynamonowy, z kory drzewa cynamonowego (Cinnamonum zeylanicum), daje dość wysoką ochronę - SPF 9.
Balsam Tolu (balsam Peruwiański) z żywicy drzewa Myroxylon balsamum; styraks (ekstrakt z żywicy drzewa Styraks tonkiensis). Salicylany izolowane z kwiatów tawuły (Spiraea).

Nowości
Naturalne filtry słoneczne wprowadziła do swoich kosmetyków firma Greentech, specjalizująca się w pozyskiwaniu aktywnych substancji z roślin. Są to Tamanol - olej z nasion tamanu (Calophyllum oil) drzewa Calophyllum inophyllum (polska nazwa - gumiak); Pongamol - kompleks na bazie glicerynowego ekstraktu z nasion pongamii (Pongamia pinnata) oraz nowość - Solarin II - substancja aktywna, wyróżniająca się zawartością specyficznych kwasów tłuszczowych. Efektywną ochronę skóry przed promieniowaniem UV zapewnia tu kwas czaulmugrowy, który występuje w oleju z nasion drzewa Hydnocarpus kurzii, nazwa polska - uśpian różnolistny, biorący udział w jednej z faz pigmentacji - migracji melanocytów (lepsza stymulacja pigmentacji skóry zapewnia lepszą ochronę przed promieniami UV).


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Saskia


Dołączył: 18 Sty 2006
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Wysłany: Pią Mar 09, 2007 13:09
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Olej migdalowy - bogaty w skwalen, beta-sitosterol i wit.E - zastosowany przed ekspozycja chroni czesciowo skore przed UVB:
Effect of pre-treatment of almond oil on ultraviolet B–induced cutaneous photoaging in mice.
http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/full/10.11...2165.2007.00293.x
Cytat:
Summary


Background Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been implicated in photoaging and various types of skin carcinomas. Although the human skin has evolved several defense mechanisms to survive the insults of actinic damage like keratinization, melanin pigmentation, etc., it is still subjected to the harmful effects of sunlight.

Aims In this study, the role of almond oil in reducing the degradative changes induced in skin upon exposure to UV radiation was investigated.

Methods Mice were divided in four groups of 20 animals. Group I was the control group. Group II was negative control, which received almond oil treatment alone. Group III was exposed to UV radiation only and Group IV received both UV treatment and almond oil treatment. Visible skin grading assessed the changes based on a rating scale, biochemical tests (glutathione estimation and lipid peroxidation), and histopathologic studies.

Results Upon exposure of mice to UV radiation, it was found that pronounced visible skin changes were seen after 12 weeks of exposure. The results of the biochemical tests, glutathione estimation, and lipid peroxidation showed that almond oil reduced the effect of UV light–induced photoaging on the skin. Histopathologic studies also indicated a photoprotective effect of almond oil on the skin after UV exposure.

Conclusions It was concluded that topical almond oil is capable of preventing the structural damage caused by UV irradiation and it was also found useful in decelerating the photoaging process.
Introduction


Primary factors contributing to wrinkled, spotted skin include chronologic aging, exposure to the sun (photoaging), and loss of subcutaneous support. Other factors that contribute to aging of the skin include stress, gravity, daily facial movement, obesity, smoking, and even sleep position. Smoking can produce free radicals – oxygen molecules that are overactive and unstable.

Photoaging is significantly different from chronologic aging in both clinical and histologic appearance. 1 However, unlike chronologic aging, which depends on the passage of time per se, photoaging depends primarily on the degree of sun exposure and skin pigment. Our current knowledge of cellular and molecular mechanisms that bring about chronologic aging and photoaging reveals that chronologic aging and photoaging share fundamental molecular pathways. 2

Although sunscreens are useful in protecting skin against UV-catalyzed degradation, they suffer drawback of incomplete spectral protection and toxicity. 3 Antioxidants work on three levels to combat free radicals. They stop free radicals from forming both before and after insult by the sun and also may correct some sun damage. Many topical antioxidants have been reported previously for supplementing sunscreen protection and providing additional anticarcinogenic protection, like vitamins C and E, selenium, zinc, silymarin, soy isoflavones, polypodium leucotomos, and tea polyphenols. 4-7 Almond oil has been used as a lipophilic vehicle to reduce UV-catalyzed degradation of retinyl palmitate to the less active cis-isomers. 8

Almond oil has been extensively used in traditional medicine to maintain the elasticity of the skin and its youthful appearance. 9 The objective of this study was to evaluate the photoprotective effect of almond oil in mice against UV radiation–induced chronic skin damage. The degree of protection is quantified using biochemical, histopathologic, and visual perception methods.
Methods


Almond oil was a gift sample from Hamdard (Wakf) Laboratories, India, and all other chemicals and reagents were purchased at the highest purity available.
Animals

The studies were carried out on healthy adult Swiss female mice of the Jamia Hamdard Animal House weighing approximately 25–30 g. The animals were kept in the group of five in polypropylene/plastic cages housed in an air-conditioned room. They were fed with the standard pellet diet (Gold Mohar, Lipton India Ltd, Bombay, India) and had ad libitum access to water.
Light exposure conditions and development of photoaging

Mice were divided into groups of 20 animals each. The first group of 20 animals, which received no treatment, was the control group. The second group of 20 animals, which received almond oil treatment, was the negative control. The third group of 20 animals received UV treatment only, and the fourth group of 20 animals received both UVB and almond oil treatment.
Treatment protocol

The hairs on the dorsal side of the mice were removed by using an electric clipper followed by the application of a depilatory cream.

Animals of Groups III and IV were kept inside the UV chamber (designed in our laboratory, fitted with UV lights) at a distance of 30 cm from the UV light source (a bank of six Toshiba fluorescent sunlamps [FLSE lamps]) and UV exposure was controlled by the time of exposure. Exposures were given daily for 15 min for the first week and the exposure time was increased by 15 min every week. At the end of 12th week, when pronounced wrinkles were developed on the skin of the mice, the exposure time was 3 h, which was continued till the end of the experiments. For the mice receiving topical treatment of almond oil, the dorsal skin was treated with almond oil 4 h prior to each UV radiation exposure. The test formulations were delivered to 3-cm2 areas of the skin outlined by adhesive tape using micropipette for delivering almond oil. The oil was then spread evenly over the dorsal skin with the flat edge of the disposable pipette tip. The erythema produced upon exposure of the skin to UV light were noted in the different groups of animals (where 0 is no erythema, 1 is mild, 2 is moderate, and 3 is severe erythema) and is given in Table 1.
Visible skin grading

Mice were observed for skin wrinkling (UVB radiation–induced event) and grading of the skin was done on the basis of wrinkling, where 0 is normal, 1 is mild, 2 is moderate, and 3 is maximum visible skin change. The visual observations were done for skin elasticity/wrinkling based on the rating scale and are given in Table 2.
Biochemical tests

Six animals of each group were taken and animals were killed by cervical dislocation. Glutathione estimation and lipid peroxidation assay were done on skin homogenate.
Estimation of reduced glutathione 10

Intracellular-reduced glutathione was estimated in the homogenates of skin of normal (Group I), UV-exposed (Group III), and UV-exposed and almond oil–treated mice (Group IV). The homogenate was obtained by centrifuging aliquot drawn out from each sample at 400 × g for 54 min. To the homogenate, 1.8 mL of 1 g/L EDTA and 3 mL of precipitating reagent (1.67 g metaphosphoric acid, 0.20 g EDTA, and 30 g NaCl in 100 mL of double distilled water) were added. After mixing, the sample was allowed to stand for 5 min before being filtered. Two milliliters of the filtrate was added to 4 mL of disodium hydrogen phosphate buffer (0.1 M, pH 7.4) and 1 mL of 5,5'-Dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid) (DTNB) reagent (40 mg of DTNB in 100 mL of 10 g/L sodium citrate). A blank was prepared by adding 0.8 mL of EDTA solution, 4 mL of disodium hydrogen phosphate and 1 mL of DTNB reagent. The result was expressed as µmol glutathione/g of tissue (mg protein).

The absorbance was read within 5 min at 412 nm against a reagent blank with no homogenate using DU-64 Beckman spectrophotometer, Beckman Coulter, American Laboratory Trading, Groton, CT. The total glutathione content was calculated using the formula described by Ellman. 10 The content "Co" of glutathione is given by
Co = AD/E

where A is absorbance at 412 nm, E is molar extinction coefficient, and D is dilution factor.
Lipid peroxidation assay

Enzymatic and nonenzymatic lipid peroxidation was assessed by estimating 2-thiobarbituric acid reacting substance, i.e. malonaldehyde (MDA). 11

The reaction mixture in 2 mL contained 2 mg of microsomal protein in 1.5 mL of phosphate buffer (0.1 M, pH 7.4) with EDTA (0.1 mm). For the enzymatic and nonenzymatic lipid peroxidation studies, the final concentrations of NADPH and iron in incubation media were 0.4 mm and 2.5 mm, respectively. The reaction mixture was incubated aerobically at 37 °C for 1 h, with constant shaking in metabolic shaker. Reaction was terminated by the addition of 0.3 mL of HCl (5 N) and 0.625 mL of 40% trichloroacetic acid. The samples were then transferred into centrifuge and 0.625 mL of 2% neutralized thiobarbituric acid solution was added and the tubes were incubated at 90 °C for 20 min in a temperature-controlled water bath. After incubation, the samples were placed in an ice bath for 5 min and then centrifuged at 10 000 × g for 5 min in Sorvall RC 5B (GMI, Inc., Bamsey, MN) refrigerated super speed centrifuge. The amount of malondialdehyde formed in each of the samples was assessed by measuring the topical density of the supernatant at 532 nm using a Beckman DU-64 spectrophotometer. The results were expressed as nmol MDA formed/hr/mg protein at 37 °C by using a molar extinction coefficient of 1.56 × 105 M-1 cm-1. Results of glutathione estimation and lipid peroxidation assay are given in Tables 3 and 4.
Histologic studies

Female albino mice were exposed to UV radiation for 12 weeks and skin biopsies (2 × 10 mm) from the dorsal side of normal mice (Group I), UVB-exposed mice (Group III) after 12 weeks, and almond oil–treated and UVB-exposed mice (Group IV) after 12 weeks were taken for histologic evaluation. Skin biopsies were fixed in 10% buffered formalin, embedded in paraffin, and sectioned at 6–10 microns. Sections were then stained with hematoxylin and eosin stain (H&E ×80 magnification). The photographs of groups I, III, and IV mice after 12 weeks of exposure to UV radiation are given in Figures 1–3.
Results and discussion


Ultraviolet C does not reach the earth's surface because it is absorbed by the ozone layer of the atmosphere. UVB reaches us in significant amounts; it produces acute sunburn and is carcinogenic. UVA is more insidious; it penetrates deeper into the skin and breaks down collagen. Chronic UV irradiation of both human and mouse skin causes the production of large quantities of thickened, twisted, abnormal elastic fibers that results in elastosis. This is associated with a substantial loss of collagen and with greatly increased amounts of glycosaminoglycans, the ground substance. In addition, dermal blood vessels become dilated and distorted and eventually are nearly destroyed. 12-17 In humans, the manifestation of these connective tissue changes resulting from similar chronic UV exposure are yellowed, leathery, wrinkled, sagging skin, a condition that is known as photoaging. 18 These abnormalities have been thought to be irreversible. It was found that appreciable repair could occur after the application of almond oil. Mice were chosen as the experimental animal as it suffers actinic damage similar to that of humans. 19

Sweet almond oil is an extremely popular oil, sought after for its rich concentration of oleic and linoleic acids. 20 The average composition of fatty acids is: oleic acid, 64–82%; linoleic acid, 8–28%; and palmitic acid, 6–8%. Almond oil is rich in β-sitosterol, squalene, and α-tocopherol, and it is one of the best sources of vitamin E, which protect healthy cells from destruction by free radicals. Almond oil is a good source of manganese, an essential trace metal used as a skin supplement for suppressing premature aging, irritation, and blemishes. Manganese also triggers energy production and activates certain skin enzymes.

Mice were exposed to UV light and exposure time was increased every week by 15 min; no well-defined erythema was noted till the exposure time reached 2 h, 45 min. When exposure time was increased to 3 h, pronounced erythema developed and shrinkage of the mice skin was noted. Wrinkles developed in 12 weeks’ time. Mice developed visible skin changes, histologic alterations, and tumors (rare) (Tables 1 and 2).

The results of the biochemical tests (glutathione estimation and lipid peroxidation) showed that almond oil reduces the effect of UV light–induced aging on the skin. Glutathione levels were reduced in the skin of UV-exposed mice, and after treatment with almond oil, glutathione levels again increased (Table 3).

It was found that levels of thio-barbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS) significantly increased upon exposure of mice to ultraviolet light, and almond oil applied topically was effective in reducing this to normal levels (Table 4).

Normal skin of mice revealing normal various layers of skin, epidermis (stratum corneum, stratum luciderm, and stratum granulosum), dermis and normal connective tissue in collagen fibers along with various glands. There is presence of smooth muscles (Fig. 1).

After 12 weeks of exposure of Group III to UV radiation, a section revealed severe dysplasia and dyshesive changes in the epidermal layer. At places there was complete absence of epidermal layer of the skin. There was marked elastosis with accumulation of elastotic material in the dermal layer along with basement membrane of the epidermis (Fig. 2). It was found that in the animals of Group IV in 12 weeks, skin of mice revealed well-marked regular epidermal layers like stratum corneum, stratum luciderm, and stratum granulosum (Fig. 3). Dermal layer showed well brought out papillary layer revealing collagen fibrils, comprising of reticular and elastic fibers. The reticular layer revealed bundles of collagen fibers as well as smooth muscle fibers, thereby revealing total reversibility of skin. After the cessation of irradiation, a broad band of new normal collagen was produced subepidermally, pushing downward the old elastotic tissue.

Almond oil contains several double bonds, which could interfere with light-induced degradation Additionally, UV-exposed and almond oil–treated mice showed a lower degree of histologic parameters of photoaging damage, including dermal elastosis and skin tumors, compared with mice treated with UV radiation alone. The results of this study illustrate that almond oil treatment helps to ameliorate and to partially inhibit some of the histologic damage associated with photoaging of skin and appears to contribute to a decrease in the prevalence of UVB-induced skin tumors in mice.
Conclusion


On the basis of visible changes, biochemical tests, and histologic studies, it can be concluded that almond oil treatment revealed photoprotective effects on the skin.

Further work is needed to establish the efficacy of almond oil in the treatment of aging of the skin in the humans.


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lenna


Dołączył: 19 Sty 2006
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Cytat:
Ekstrakt z liści karczocha zwyczajnego (INCI: Cynara scolymus (artichoke) leaf extract) zapobiega fotostarzeniu poprzez hamowanie czynnika transkrypcyjnego NF- Kappa B. Po zastosowaniu tej substancji pory na twarzy zmniejszają się, ze względu na obniżony proces keratynizacji oraz zmniejszenie ilośc melaniny w skórze. Prawdopodobnie ekstrakt z karczocha wpływa także, na wzrost elastyczności skóry.

Innym surowcem jest ekstrakt z bodziszka cuchnącego (INCI: Geranium robertianum extract). Ekstrakt ten również zapobiega fotostarzeniu hamując aktywność tryptazy, co objawia się zmniejszeniem degradacji kolagenu typu I oraz IV. Ekstrakt z budziszka redukuje występowanie zmarszczek, a także poprawia elastyczność skóry.

http://www.biotechnologia.com.pl/kosmetologia/35/2135541345
http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/ingredients/5890921.html

preparaty karczochowe:
# CYNACHOLIN- etanolowy wyciąg z ziela karczocha
# CYNAREX- wyciąg z ziela karczocha
# GASTROBONISOL- wyciąg z ziela bylicy boże drzewko, sok z ziela mniszka lekarskiego, nalewka z ostropestu plamistego, sok z ziela krwawnika, nalewka z dziurawca, nalewka z mięty.
# HEPACYNAR- suchy wyciąg z karczocha
# HEPASON COMPLEX - standaryzowany wyciąg z karczocha, wit. B1, wit. B2, wit. B6, wit. B12, kwas foliowy, niacyna.
# "HEPATO PROTECT Karczoch + Ostropest - ekstrakt z karczocha i ostropestu plamistego (składniki kapsułki: żelatyna, woda, dwutlenek krzemu, 1 kapsułka zawiera: 360 mg ekstraktu z karczochów i 140 mg ekstraktu z ostropestu plamistego)

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Poly


Dołączył: 24 Sty 2006
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Wysłany: Pon Lis 26, 2007 0:51
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Arrow Zel z czarnej herbaty podwojnie chroni skore przed promieniowaniem pochlaniajac promienie i naprawiac DNA.

W badaniu nakladano na przedramię zel z czarnej herbaty i nastepnie wystawiano cala reke na dzialanie promnieni slonecznych.
Po zakonczeniu badania okazalo sie ,ze skora z herbata nie byla zaczerwieniona. Herbata chroni w granicach 250-290 nm.
Takze jej druga rola to silny antyutleniacz , ktory naprawia szkody wyrządzone przez UV. Polecaja stosowanie ekstraktu z herbaty jako alternatywy chemicznych filtrow.

Black tea gel could provide double protection against UV radiation by absorbing UV rays and repairing DNA damage inside the skin.
http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/news/ng.asp?n=81...c=gnjditmlrjwvcni

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głodzilla


Dołączył: 23 Gru 2008
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Wysłany: Sob Sty 03, 2009 23:17
Temat postu: Olej z nasion czerwonej maliny
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Olej z nasion czerwonej maliny

Zarówno w "mazidłach", jak i w "zrób sobie krem" wspominają o tym, że może on być skutecznym naturalnym filtrem (SPF 28-50). Ctyuję:

"Szeroko cytowana, jedna z ostatnich publikacji naukowych (Oomah i inni 2000) potwierdza, że olej ten posiada właściwości absorbowania promieniowania UV (na poziomie SPF 28 - 50 – tak jak czysty tlenek tytanu).Należy jednak pamiętać, że zastosowanie czystego olejku z pestek malin nie jest równoznaczne z zastosowaniem kremu o zbadanym SPF na poziomie 50, ochrona skóry przed promieniowaniem UV zależy od bardzo wielu czynników – np. od współczynnika absorpcji czy lepkości kosmetyku. "

Nie do końca rozumiem ostatnie zdanie: przecież jeśli stosujemy czysty olej to on zawsze ma tę samą lepkość. Bardziej już do mnie trafia ten stopień absorpcji, bo jak wiadomo, każda skóra chłonie inaczej. W każdym razie to chyba najsilniejszy z naturalnych filtrów, o jakich czytałam.

Przy okazji: czy ktoś może wie, gdzie można kupić dwutlenek tytanu (najlepiej mikronizowany) w cywilizowanych ilościach (tzn. żeby nie był to 30 kilowy worek Confused )

_________________
Na 9 rudych 10 jest wrednych. Ja jestem ta dziesiąta Wink
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tysia


Dołączył: 08 Sie 2008
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Skąd: W-wa

Wysłany: Sro Sty 21, 2009 14:25
Temat postu: Re: Olej z nasion czerwonej maliny
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głodzilla napisał:

Przy okazji: czy ktoś może wie, gdzie można kupić dwutlenek tytanu (najlepiej mikronizowany) w cywilizowanych ilościach (tzn. żeby nie był to 30 kilowy worek Confused )


ja kupowałam w sklepie jaworek.net 10g za 7zł, nie wiem czy o taki ci chodzi?
a olej z pestek malin zamówiłam i właśnie na niego czekam

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ayem
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Dołączył: 29 Sty 2006
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Wysłany: Pon Sie 24, 2009 0:04
Temat postu: Noni
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alkoholowy ekstrakt w polaczeniu z sokiem z lisci rosliny noni (Morinda citrifolia ) prawie 3,5-krotnie zwieksza dawke uvb potrzebna do wywolania rumienia

Cytat:
Nat Med (Tokyo). 2009 Jul;63(3):351-4. Epub 2009 Mar 13.


Morinda citrifolia Linn. (Rubiaceae) leaf extracts mitigate UVB-induced erythema.

West BJ, Deng S, Palu AK, Jensen CJ.

Research and Development, Tahitian Noni International, American Fork, UT 84003, USA. brett_west@tni.com


Morinda citrifolia Linn. (Rubiaceae) leaves have been used in tropical folk medicine to treat topical inflammation and burns. A carbomer gel base, containing the ethanol extract and juice pressed from the leaves, was evaluated for potential allergenic properties in a repeat-insult patch test in 49 volunteers. To investigate the topical photo-protective properties, the combined ethanol extract and leaf juice were evaluated in a UVB-induced erythema model in 25 volunteers. The crude ethanol extract of M. citrifolia leaves was also evaluated in vitro for potential anti-inflammatory activity in a histamine H-1 receptor antagonism assay. There was no evidence of allergenic potential in the repeat-insult patch test. When the combination of ethanol extract and leaf juice was applied, the UVB dose required to induce erythema was almost 3.5 times greater than with untreated skin (P < 0.001). In the histamine H-1 receptor-binding assay, the crude ethanol extract of M. citrifolia leaves inhibited receptor binding by 57%. These results suggest that M. citrifolia leaves are safe for topical use and may be useful in mitigating UVB-induced injury to the skin.


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Poly


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Jestem w trakcie poszukiwania naturalnych filtrow ,
oto jeden z nich:
Natural Sunscreen spf 30+


ingredients: Deionized water, apricot oil (organic), MSM (methylsulfonylmethane), sweet almond oil (organic), usnea extract (organic), vitamin E, calendula extract (organic), coconut wax, glycerine, tea tree oil, aloe extract 200:1 (organic), vitamin A, grapefruit seed extract, vitamin D3, micronized titanium dioxide, micronized zinc dioxide, essential oil of orange.

Cana ok 70 zl

Sama jestem ciekawa, jaki wspolczynnik moze miec UVA Rolling Eyes Question

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mentha


Dołączył: 28 Maj 2006
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Czy ktoś wie coś na temat działania antyoksydacyjnego, fotoprotekcji ekstraktu z szarotki alpejskiej (Leontopodium alpinum, Edelweiss), czy to legendy spod samiuśkich Alp? Składnik wykorzystała Weleda w linii słonecznej, ostatnio Plante System i inni. Zaciekawiło mnie to, ale niewiele znalazłam. Natknęłam się za to na coś takiego:

Uniprotect PT-3 w stężeniu 3% ma zapewniać ochronę równą SPF 20 (badanie In vitro).
Cytat:
The ingredient, Uniprotect PT-3, is a blend of ethyl linoleate (EL) and panthenyl triacetate (PTA), both thought to be involved in the stimulation of antioxidant pathways.
According to Induchem’s Dr Kuno Schweikert, the ingredient’s protective effect is related to its stimulation of the enzymatic repair system rather than blocking UV rays.
“Until now, most day creams have UV filters to protect from irradiation. But, we need UV light to produce vitamin D3,” he said.
Replacing the UV filters with Uniprotect PT-3 in everyday formulations would reduce the effects of photodamage without interfering with the vitamin D pathway, he said.
(…)
The study was in vitro and used a number of skin samples removed during cosmetic surgery.
Uniprotect 3 per cent was applied onto the epidermis of biopsies before or after being irradiated with UV. The effect of the complex on decreasing protein oxidation, as well as on mediating the reduction of repair enzymes caused by the UV damage, was compared to the effect of an SPF 20 formulation and an untreated control.
According to the results, the application of the ingredient pre- and post-irradiation led to a decrease in protein oxidation by 72 and 78 per cent respectively.
In addition, repair enzymes (including MSRA, GSR and TXN) that were down regulated with UV irradiation, remained at higher levels after treatment with the ingredient.
Although further studies are needed to clarify the exact roles of EL and PTA in the complex, the study suggests that their ability to stimulate glutathione synthesis, which in turn could stimulate the activity of the repair enzyme glutathione reductase (GSR), could play a key role.
Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Issue 32, pages 29 – 34
A bioactive complex to protect proteins from UV-induced oxidation in human epidermis
K.Schweiker, F Gafner, G. Dell Acqua
http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Formulation-Scie...everyday-products


Proszę o przesunięcie, jeśli jest gdzieś odpowiedniejsze miejsce.

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ayem
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Wartosci SPF / PF-UVA (PPD) dla roznych flawonoidow i polifenoli w stezeniu 10% w/w w emulsji o/w


http://www.skin-forum.eu/posters/2009/poster05.pdf

tylko trzy nie sa fotostabilne: ethyl ferulate (ester kwasu ferulowego), kwas chlorogenowy i kofeinowy, ale tak jak w przypadku niestabilnych filtrow moga byc laczone z fotostabilnymi dla uzyskania fotostabilnej mieszanki

wszystkie oprocz ethyl ferulate dzialaja w szerokim pasmie (nie podano jednak dokladnych wartosci)

dla porownania sam Tinosorb S w dopuszczalnym maksymalnym stezeniu daje SPF 20, PPD 12

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ayem
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Wysłany: Czw Kwi 26, 2012 7:39
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wg ponizszego indyjskiego badania, krem z 5% olejku z kwiatow nagietka daje ochrone anty-UVB w wysokosci ok. SPF 15.
wartosc te wyliczono metoda in vitro, czyli bez udzialu ochotnikow na skorze ktorych zwykle testuje sie wysokosc ochrony

www.jyoungpharm.in/article.asp?issn=0975-148...=21;aulast=Mishra

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jagoda_xd


Dołączył: 18 Lis 2012
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Wysłany: Wto Lis 20, 2012 20:28
Temat postu: coś naturalnego na zimowe mrozy :)
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Szukam czegos naturalnego na zimowe mrozy myślałam o jakimś oleju/maśle:)... Może cos polecicie ? Szukałam już troche informacji i wpadły mi w oko olej kokosowy i masło shea... Cere mam raczej mieszaną ale ostatnio zauważam zmiany w kierunku normalnej. Zależy mi też na "szybkim" wchłanianu:) To co ciekawego możecie polecić ?

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ayem
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Czy te naturalne oleje lub masła maja zapewniać solidną ochrone anty-UV?

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piernik


Dołączył: 03 Mar 2011
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Wysłany: Czw Maj 30, 2013 20:07
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Ciekawy artykuł o roślinnych "ochraniaczach" słonecznych:
Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation
Radava R. Korać and Kapil M. Khambholja1

Cytat:
Abstract
Herbs have been used in medicines and cosmetics from centuries. Their potential to treat different skin diseases, to adorn and improve the skin appearance is well-known. As ultraviolet (UV) radiation can cause sunburns, wrinkles, lower immunity against infections, premature aging, and cancer, there is permanent need for protection from UV radiation and prevention from their side effects. Herbs and herbal preparations have a high potential due to their antioxidant activity, primarily. Antioxidants such as vitamins (vitamin C, vitamin E), flavonoids, and phenolic acids play the main role in fighting against free radical species that are the main cause of numerous negative skin changes. Although isolated plant compounds have a high potential in protection of the skin, whole herbs extracts showed better potential due to their complex composition. Many studies showed that green and black tea (polyphenols) ameliorate adverse skin reactions following UV exposure. The gel from aloe is believed to stimulate skin and assist in new cell growth. Spectrophotometer testing indicates that as a concentrated extract of Krameria triandra it absorbs 25 to 30% of the amount of UV radiation typically absorbed by octyl methoxycinnamate. Sesame oil resists 30% of UV rays, while coconut, peanut, olive, and cottonseed oils block out about 20%. A “sclerojuglonic” compound which is forming from naphthoquinone and keratin is the reaction product that provides UV protection. Traditional use of plant in medication or beautification is the basis for researches and making new trends in cosmetics. This review covers all essential aspects of potential of herbs as radioprotective agents and its future prospects.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3263051/?report=classic

Ciekawą rzecz natomiast znalazłam o oleju kokosowym jako filtrze, otóż olej olejowi nierówny i sposób ekstrakcji ma znaczenie. Najwyraźniej ten otrzymywany tradycyjną metodą, czyli przez fermentacje mleka, ma takie właściwości.
http://personalcaretruth.com/2013/01/the-chemistry-of-coconut-oil/

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ayem
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In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics. Pharmacognosy Res. 2010 Jan;2(1):22-5.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3140123/

Badano stopień ochrony w zakresie UVB przez 0,1% wodnoalkoholowy roztwór różnych olejów. Olej z oliwek wypadł porównywalnie, a nawet nieco lepiej niż kokosowy ->


http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3140123/table/T3/

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